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Bricks in Motion
Bricks in Motion
We are a friendly filmmaking community devoted to the art of stop-motion animation using LEGO® and similar construction toys. Here, you can share your work, join our community of other brickfilmers, and participate in periodic animation contests!
A place to discuss, share, and create stop motion films.
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It's also possible that through a large amount of use the threads on the lens itself have become loose. That's definitely a worse scenario than the adapter being bad, but I'm not sure how you would fix it.
M42 lenses like the Helios 44-2 don't mount properly to Nikon cameras, period, because the flange distance is too long. It reduces the minimum focus distance to around 5 feet. Granted, that might be fine for LEGO purposes.
As for your adapter problem, I do not know. I own that same adapter (I was using it for adapting to a speed booster that used a nikon mount) and I honestly had a little trouble with it, but I got it to work by kinda jiggling and twisting it around for a while. I then had a VERY difficult time getting it off of the speed booster, which was scary.
Nikon cameras, with their extremely long flanges and mount design that hasn't changed in decades, are a bit hard to adapt lenses to. I can always get the Fotodiox adapters to work if I play with them for a while, but I don't have your camera. I have bought an adapter that didn't work properly before no matter what I tried (it was micro four thirds to Nikon adapter and had almost the exact problem you're describing. But it wasn't fotodiox, I bought the fotodiox version and that worked fine.)
I've had very pleasing results with my Sony Alpha 55 DSLR camera. My primary lens is a 30mm macro lens, which allows for extremely close-up shots, including full frame minifigure faces (it's also fantastic for portrait photography of non-plastic people as well). 
I'm thrilled with the camera. Next on my shopping list is a remote control for the shutter.
M42 lenses like the Helios 44-2 don't mount properly to Nikon cameras, period, because the flange distance is too long. It reduces the minimum focus distance to around 5 feet. Granted, that might be fine for LEGO purposes.
As for your adapter problem, I do not know. I own that same adapter (I was using it for adapting to a speed booster that used a nikon mount) and I honestly had a little trouble with it, but I got it to work by kinda jiggling and twisting it around for a while. I then had a VERY difficult time getting it off of the speed booster, which was scary.
Nikon cameras, with their extremely long flanges and mount design that hasn't changed in decades, are a bit hard to adapt lenses to. I can always get the Fotodiox adapters to work if I play with them for a while, but I don't have your camera. I have bought an adapter that didn't work properly before no matter what I tried (it was micro four thirds to Nikon adapter and had almost the exact problem you're describing. But it wasn't fotodiox, I bought the fotodiox version and that worked fine.)
I also have the black V1 (I think it's plastic) of the lens adapter (which they sent to me by mistake last week, so I requested an exchange, and they aren't asking for the black one back, 
), and it screws in fine, but the hole for the lens-release button pin isn't long enough so the pin won't go through it. Maybe if I enlarge the hole with a drill it will work. As for the metal one, I guess I'll just keep trying and maybe it will loosen itself up... I don't know...
So I'm considering getting a DSLR for brickfilming (and photography), and I was hoping I could get some advice here (with Christmas coming up and all).
I read through a bunch of the threads here about brickfilming with DSLRs, and I've narrowed my choices down a bit. From what I've seen, I probably want to get a Canon camera because of the lens versatility. This would also be my best choice since my sister already has a Canon camera so we can share equipment and I won't have to invest quite so much money into it.
One camera that I ran across that looks pretty promising is the Canon EOS SL1. This one looks favorable mostly because of its relatively small size. It's about 1 inches wider, 2 inches taller, and 1 inch deeper than my current webcam (not including the monitor rest), so there is going to be a lot more maneuverability with this one than with, say, a T2i. The size would also be nice for photography, I do know my sister doesn't take her T2i around as much as she would like since it is so big. On the Canon site, a refurbished edition of this camera can be found for $360, which seems like a pretty good price.
SlothPaladin, I believe you use this camera, would you recommend it?
--Mighty
I do know my sister doesn't take her T2i around as much as she would like since it is so big.
The T2i, big. I know it may seem big to someone who uses a webcam for animation, but in the camera world, the T2i is quite small. Compared to a 5D with a battery grip it's practically a point and shoot. In all seriousness, small isn't always good when it comes to a DSLR. For brickfilming, yes, smaller is better, but if you really want to get into photography, you may want to consider a larger camera. This is a subjective matter of course, but here's my opinion. I have a 60D, and it's a bit to small; and I really don't like shooting with the Rebel series cameras. I really like having all my fingers wrapped around the grip of the camera, especially when using a heavier lens, and I can just get my pinky onto the grip of the 60D. The T2i and other similar size cameras have smaller grips, meaning my pinky rests under the camera, which might not seem like a bg deal, but it can get really uncomfortable after long periods of time, so I imagine I wouldn't like the SL1 very much. I have pretty small hands, so before you by a really small camera, try to get your hands on one at a camera store or something to make sure it's comfortable. Of course if photography will only be an occasional thing and 85% of the time it will be sitting on a desk in front of LEGO, then it probably isn't a big deal.
The t2i is small as DSLRs go, but the SL1 is tiny. I can see where that would be advantageous for stop motion, and I'd question what advantage there is to a fancier camera for the purpose of LEGO animation. Not because the standards are somehow lower, but because all you're doing is taking stills in a very controlled setting where advanced features have no use.
Yeah, I was wondering if this was going to be the case, but I hadn't gotten any opinions like this from the other thread.
I seem to be getting stuck in this loop again. I would really like to upgrade from my webcam, but DSLRs are both/either too expensive/unnecessarily advanced (for brickfilming). I'm just not quite sure what to do at this point - keep looking or just settle with my current camera?
--Mighty
I would keep looking. I don't know what your planing to do with animation in the future, but learning how to use a good camera is a very helpful skill to learn. Also in my opinion size isn't a very big deal.
Hope that helps
OsomStudios
You should consider looking into an HD camcorder. It would be less versatile (you couldn't use it for photography), but they're smaller, can focus much closer, are easier to use and considerably cheaper.
You should consider looking into an HD camcorder. It would be less versatile (you couldn't use it for photography), but they're smaller, can focus much closer, are easier to use and considerably cheaper.
Would you have any specific recommendations? All of the HD camcorders that I've seen don't have to focus or zoom range to accommodate stop motion. And would any of them happen to be compatible with something like DragonFrame?
Also, what kind of price range is there for a camcorder? I haven't seen any that aren't that much cheaper than I can get a DSLR for.
--Mighty
Would you have any specific recommendations?
I can't speak from experience as I haven't been camera shopping in a long time, but I'm thinking along the lines of the Sony HDR-CX240E.
I own the Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens, and have been using it for brickfilming on my Nikon D3100 with a simple M42 to Nikon adapter. Unfortunately, it can not focus beyond about 2 meters. I want to take portraits with this lens, because I have seen that it has really awesome Bokeh, but like I said, the focus is an issue. I was wondering if any of you have purchased a lens adapter (with the infinity focus glass) that works well with the lens without degrading quality too terribly much, and that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I was looking at this one ( http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Mount-Ad … 003EB3G6M/ ), but the reviews say it degrades image quality. Of course that is expected, but how much does it really degrade? If it's a small amount, then I'm fine with it, because I usually touch up my portraits anyway, and a small distortion around the edges wouldn't be too bad, it might make it look cool.
Of course, I know that some will say that I should buy a Canon camera, because Nikon is trash and that because of it's flange distance or something, the lens won't work on it. I know that, that's why I'm looking for an adapter. But, if there are no good adapters out there around 20 or 25 dollars, does anyone know of any vintage, prime lenses (similar to the Helios) that are good for portraits and allow longer focus without using an adapter with glass (because instead of paying for a high priced adapter, I'd rather pay for a low priced lens). Is a lens with a higher millimeter count going to focus farther, or act the same? It's been a real shame that I can only use my Helios 44-2 for brickfilming, because I'd really love to go out and test it in a larger world.
Thanks for the answers, advice, and comments.
What about using the default lens that comes with the D3100? I use a jammed macro lens for close ups. but often when taking a picture of something non-LEGO I use the original lens since it has a wider field of view and doesn't have its aperture purposefully jammed like my macro lens.
(and I do use the the same camera)
I've bought the adapter with glass. Don't buy it. I'm serious, its a complete waste of time and money.
What about using the default lens that comes with the D3100? I use a jammed macro lens for close ups. but often when taking a picture of something non-LEGO I use the original lens since it has a wider field of view and doesn't have its aperture purposefully jammed like my macro lens.
(and I do use the the same camera)
Well, that's what I have been doing, but I like the distinct look of vintage lenses. They give it a film look without having film. I enjoy manual aperture and focus by using rings instead of using buttons too. I'll probably keep using my Nikon kit lens if I don't find a solution, I was just looking for an alternative.
I've bought the adapter with glass. Don't buy it. I'm serious, its a complete waste of time and money.
Really? Do you still have it? If so, do you mind taking an example shot so I can see what you are talking about (I have found no pictures online at all ).
This is a test for anyone looking into buying an adapter with glass in it.
I couldn't really find an example photo for the ghosting issue at the moment. I will continue though.
A few things to point out when using this kind of adapter.
It extends your focal distance
It creates awful ghosting and chromatic aberrations and the like
You can't get any closer than approximately 4-5 feet (depending on your lens) of your subject without not being able to focus
It softens the image greatly
With the adapter. 
rio1 by chrisWLG, on Flickr
This one was, obviously, without the adapter. 
rio2 by chrisWLG, on Flickr
Example of bulletin 3 below.
With adapter 
rio3 by chrisWLG, on Flickr
Without adapter 
rio4 by chrisWLG, on Flickr
Example of bulletin 2 below.
With adapter. 
rio5 by chrisWLG, on Flickr
Without adapter. 
rio6 by chrisWLG, on Flickr
Last edited by Gentry Studios (January 8, 2015 (03:03pm))
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No luck with that, Gentrystudios. When I turn my adapter left to get into place, I end up un-screwing the lens. I may end up returning this adapter... :\
