Bricks in Motion
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Hello!
Let's go straight to the topic:
I know how to mask, but I want to know a way to make a jumping effect without removing the shadow of the figure.
Basically, making it as realistic as possible. Do you have any advice?
Wait, so a way that the shadow looks normal after masking?
Play with the position of your lamps/light source(s)....
Look at these videos by boardron Watch this one first.
This one second.
He strategically place his lamp(s).
Thanks for the feedback! 
I'll try out both!
Or you could use this method I came up with, called Double Rigging:
To do it, you take the usual rig-on-the-bottom frame first. In the next frame, have a rig supporting it from the top. Make sure the object you want floating is in the same place in both frames. Then, mask out the rig in the first frame using the second frame as the backround plate. The result is smooth masking with realistic shadows.
Or you could use this method I came up with, called Double Rigging:
I wrote:To do it, you take the usual rig-on-the-bottom frame first. In the next frame, have a rig supporting it from the top. Make sure the object you want floating is in the same place in both frames. Then, mask out the rig in the first frame using the second frame as the backround plate. The result is smooth masking with realistic shadows.
I don't get it.
Or you could use this method I came up with, called Double Rigging:
I wrote:To do it, you take the usual rig-on-the-bottom frame first. In the next frame, have a rig supporting it from the top. Make sure the object you want floating is in the same place in both frames. Then, mask out the rig in the first frame using the second frame as the backround plate. The result is smooth masking with realistic shadows.
That seems terribly inefficient. A rig at the top is all you need.
minifig051 wrote:Or you could use this method I came up with, called Double Rigging:
I wrote:To do it, you take the usual rig-on-the-bottom frame first. In the next frame, have a rig supporting it from the top. Make sure the object you want floating is in the same place in both frames. Then, mask out the rig in the first frame using the second frame as the backround plate. The result is smooth masking with realistic shadows.
I don't get it.
What don't you get about it, exactly?
I have tried double rigging, but if I support it from underneath in one shot, and from the top in one shot, it would be terribly hard to keep the minifigure in the same place. Still, sounds like a good idea.
I have tried double rigging, but if I support it from underneath in one shot, and from the top in one shot, it would be terribly hard to keep the minifigure in the same place. Still, sounds like a good idea.
A frame capture program with onionskinning helps with that. If you don't have that, then just toggling back and forth between live view and the captured frame would be okay.
If you don't use a frame capture program, it would be very difficult to get it lined up.
I know it's more work with doing that, but you have a much easier time doing the masking.
EDIT: Oh wait, you've seen me post it before? It's been a while since I posted how to do it, I didn't remember.
I do have onionskin, I use Stop Motion Pro.
I do have onionskin, I use Stop Motion Pro.
Did you use it when you attempted Double Rigging?
I have SMP too, by the way.
Yep.
Hm. Actually, that is kind of the point. It takes most of the work out of post production and puts it into production. I do admit, it's been hard for me to do, too. I came up with it because of Stop Motion Pro's Rig Removal tool, which doesn't have a magic wand tool like in Photoshop so you can get really precise. Double Rigging allows you to be not as neat in masking and still get smooth edges. It also gives you shadows so you don't have to make one in post production (also more realistic shadows than computer-made shadows).
If you're using an Adobe program to do masking, you can use Layer Style Settings to add a "Drop Shadow". It's more customizable it you have Photoshop Extended, but Photoshop Elements should work.
Gimp is free. But I recomend photoshop. 
Paint.NET is enough good and free.
I have Photoshop Elements 10, and GIMP.
I just need some tips about lighting and realistic shadows. Well, thanks anyway
EDIT: Oh, some tips for rigging would be great too!
Last edited by Briks (February 18, 2012 (09:11am))
do separate masks for the figure and for the shadow. The shadow mask should be feathered to give a much softer effect and this should be adjusted depending on how far away the shadow is from the figure....nearer = sharper, distance = softer
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