Bricks in Motion
We are a friendly filmmaking community devoted to the art of stop-motion animation using LEGO® and similar construction toys. Here, you can share your work, join our community of other brickfilmers, and participate in periodic animation contests!
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So, I'm looking into buying a DSLR but I'm also on a pretty tight budget at the moment. I was wondering if there were any decent (1080p still images) cameras that I could get for as cheap as possible.
It depends on what "tiny budget" is. A DSLR is more of an investment than just a camera. With a DSLR, you'll need a tripod, power adapter, software, preferably different lenses, and the list just starts from there. While not all of these are required to start, you'll find that you cannot just stop at a DSLR.
Source: Experience
I have a tripod that works, and my Mom says she has some lenses that I can use. There's also free software and lots of other things that we have around the house, since she's a photographer. I would also assume that a DSLR would come with a power adapter, since that's just good sense from camera companies.
Knowing your budget would be helpful, as well as what lenses you are planning to use. Not all lenses are suited for stop-motion. Also, a lot of free software that works for webcams doesn't work for DLSRs.
And no, not all DLSRs come with power adapters.
I would also assume that a DSLR would come with a power adapter, since that's just good sense from camera companies.
No, it doesn't. Just a battery and a station to charge the battery, so the battery must be taken out of the camera to be charged. Really, to a camera company, it's good sense to sell the adapter separately at a high margin, since not everyone buying the camera will need one so it's best to get some $$ out of those who do.
I'd say the best option to get a camera body (no lenses) on the cheap would be to buy used from a reputable dealer. I got the my T3i body off of B&H for $300. It came with the body, a usb cable, the manual, and the battery charging station. They forgot the battery in the initial shipment, but after calling support about it the battery got FedExed to my house and arrived the next day, so no points off. I had to buy the AC adapter for my camera separate from amazon.
Even though your mom has lenses you can use, you need to make sure that these are macro lenses that can actually focus close enough to the set. My grandpa is a photographer too, but none of the lenses he has, and lemme tell you he has a TON of lenses, were useful to me, as they weren't macro and wouldn't play well with extension tubes.
Always keep in mind, that a DSLR is much more of a longtime investment than a webcam is. Rio summed it up well, but you'll need a lot more variables in place to get things functional, and on top of that you're gonna need a lot more technical skill and know-how to get anything worthwhile.
Just got my t2i in the mail. Super pumped. 
1. AC adapter.
2. You can put your camera on a tripod just fine.
3. This seems reasonable.
4. No.
Awesome! Thanks!
So I'm thinking of making a video that would use a lot of close ups, and Im wondering about non electronic extension tubes and how they work for brick filming.
1: I have heard you can't change the F stop is there a way to get around that for brick filming?
2: if its not electronic does it support live view, and if so it should still work with "Dragon Frame" right?
3: is it at all dangerous for your camera?
Thanks a ton
OsomStudios
1. I mean, that's not true. Unless there's some weird brand on extension tubes that causes that, you can totally change F-Stop (on the lens, not on the computer). All the tubes do is move the lens farther from the sensor, they don't actually hook up to any of the mechanical components of the lens besides the basic locking mechanism which would normally attach straight to the camera.
With that said, when using extension tubes you should try to aim for using a higher F-Stop. Since the lens will be so close to the subjects, the depth of field you will achieve at that small of a scale on a higher stop will be razor thin. As a result, turning the F-Stop up higher is recommended. As a result you will need to light the scene more to compensate for the loss of light.
(After writing this whole paragraph, I realized that I should mention that, while you can always change F-Stop on the lens of your camera, having non-electronic extension tubes does make it so you cannot change F-Stop on the computer. As in, you won't be able to use the built in tool on Dragonframe which allows you to change it in the program, you'll have to change it directly on the lens while animating. I didn't really think of this since all the lenses I have are vintage Nikons, so I can't change F-Stop on the computer no matter what, but not everyone's a dinko like me so yeah)
2. Extension tubes are just things that attach to your camera, it doesn't mess with the electronics.
3. I did have an issue with the cheap set of extension tubes where, one day, the ring that attaches the tubes to the camera and the 7mm extension became stuck together. Even with pliers and a ton of force I can't get them apart. I'm probably gonna have to buy a new set of extension tubes since I often don't use the any of the extensions besides the ring to attach to the camera and the ring to attach to the lens, they zero in the focus enough for me.
We need more information to accurately answer your questions, osom, like what lens you are using. But I'll answer anyway. (Sonjira did a good job summarizing, but I have something to add)
1. It depends on what lens you have. With a manual lens, you can change everything from the lens, so that's no problem. But if you have the Canon kit lens, you have to change the F-stop to something (preferably something that has a wide depth of field, because it'll narrow with the tubes) BEFORE you disconnect your lens from your camera. Then, you hold down the "Preview Aperture" button on the side of the camera WHILE taking off your lens. This will make the lens conform to that aperture so it won't be either wide open or all the way closed when it's on your extension tubes. But no, you cannot change your aperture on the lens while it's connected to the extension tubes (because there's no way for your camera to communicate to the lens).
2. Live view comes through your camera, it doesn't matter if you have a lens on or not. In fact, you can have live view on without a lens on if you want. So yes, it does have live view.
3. Some cheap ones may be hard to come off if you're not careful, but generally, they are fine. I use the Fotodiox ones, and they've never given me trouble (though, one set I had jiggled a bit on the lens side, but I swapped it out and it wasn't as bad on the second set). It's not bad for your camera in any other way, though. I recommend extension tubes for any brckfilmer with a DSLR.
Thanks a ton guys! this is really helpful. I have a Canon t3i with a kit lens.
Thanks a ton guys for taking the time to explain this stuff.
OsomStudios
I would suggest some Close up filters such as these:
http://www.amazon.ca/Polaroid-Optics-Pi … r+polaroid
I use them and they work great. They let you get a really close up shot of your character. You can even stack them up for EXTREME magnification! Just be sure to buy the ones that are fitted to the diameter of your lens. (i.e. 52mm, 56mm, ect.)
Hope that helps. 
While diopters (close up filters) are good, and I do use them on my 28mm lens to get a medium macro angle, extension tubes have no glass in them, so they have 0 distortion. Extension tubes are generally a better thing to have, and they are very versatile. Not to say that diopters are bad, like I said, I use them, but when you layer them, or need more closeups, the picture is distorted, so extension tubes are a better option.
Thanks guys! How much does the diopter lower the quality, like on 1080p can it really be noticed at all? Im just wondering with how nice the lens control is. also I heard that sometimes it can be really hard to focus at the right point with extension tubes how annoying is that with brick filming, as in is it often that you can't get the shot you want?
Thanks so much guys this is really helping!
OsomStudions
Thanks guys! How much does the diopter lower the quality, like on 1080p can it really be noticed at all? Im just wondering with how nice the lens control is. also I heard that sometimes it can be really hard to focus at the right point with extension tubes how annoying is that with brick filming, as in is it often that you can't get the shot you want?
A cheap +1 diopter is barely noticeable to me as far as the distortion it creates. +10 is going to have some noticeable if you're looking for it distortion and color fringing on the edges of the frame probably but I don't feel it becomes distractingly bad or anything like that. Look at the extreme closeups in any of MindGame's recent brickfilms for an example of what I mean. Might be worth noting that there are expensive diopters that do a better job of avoiding distortion. I haven't tried the Tiffen ones, which are sort of a middle-range option and I imagine significantly better quality than the cheap ones most of us use. That particular set has no +10, though. You can blow $300 on a single diopter if you go to the really high-end stuff, there's no limit on expensive gear.
The thing about extension tubes is true. I found with specific close shots I wanted (based on storyboards) it's hard to get it just right with extension tubes, though they can produce nice-looking closeups with no distortion. There just aren't that many length options on a standard set of extension tubes. Personally, I use a mixture of extension tubes and diopters. Sometimes, a short extension tube plus a weak diopter will help dial in that extreme closeup and look a little nicer than using a +10 and +4 diopter stacked on each other.
Hey guys. What should I look for in a DSLR camera for stopmotion and for photograph, in your opinion? I have been looking around on amazon for a good, high quality DSLR. How about this? CanonRebel T5 DSLR Bundle with 18-55mm and 55-250mm STM Lens
Basically any modern DSLR by Canon is good for stop motion, and most of them will be good choices for a casual photographer.
While those zoom lenses would likely be okay for photography, I would definitely advise against using Canon's electronic zoom lenses for stop motion; the electronic apertures in these lenses don't close to exactly the same place on each frame and this results in unavoidable light flicker, as well as slightly warbly depth of field.
So, if you are going to get a DSLR for stop motion, you'll need to budget for proper lenses to go with that. Sloth's guide is a good place to start.
osomstudios wrote:Thanks guys! How much does the diopter lower the quality, like on 1080p can it really be noticed at all? Im just wondering with how nice the lens control is. also I heard that sometimes it can be really hard to focus at the right point with extension tubes how annoying is that with brick filming, as in is it often that you can't get the shot you want?
A cheap +1 diopter is barely noticeable to me as far as the distortion it creates. +10 is going to have some noticeable if you're looking for it distortion and color fringing on the edges of the frame probably but I don't feel it becomes distractingly bad or anything like that. Look at the extreme closeups in any of MindGame's recent brickfilms for an example of what I mean. Might be worth noting that there are expensive diopters that do a better job of avoiding distortion. I haven't tried the Tiffen ones, which are sort of a middle-range option and I imagine significantly better quality than the cheap ones most of us use. That particular set has no +10, though. You can blow $300 on a single diopter if you go to the really high-end stuff, there's no limit on expensive gear.
The thing about extension tubes is true. I found with specific close shots I wanted (based on storyboards) it's hard to get it just right with extension tubes, though they can produce nice-looking closeups with no distortion. There just aren't that many length options on a standard set of extension tubes. Personally, I use a mixture of extension tubes and diopters. Sometimes, a short extension tube plus a weak diopter will help dial in that extreme closeup and look a little nicer than using a +10 and +4 diopter stacked on each other.
Thanks a ton! Im thinking I'l buy some extension tubes first then and maybe buy some diopters later on!
Thanks again
OsomStudios
Another thing worth looking at is just getting the 55mm Nikon macro lens. That way you wouldn't need a diopter or extension tube to focus for anything but very extreme closeups.
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