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Topic: New Test/Scene Lego Pirates, Treasure Cove in HD

Hey guys, this is my newest project, I personally enjoyed doing this one, it was something different, infact I masked for the very first time, and I felt I did pretty good! (the masking was the lego man falling).

The only slight minor problem I had personally, was the resolution changed in the film, I think I know the reason for this, and no it did not decrease quality, the film stayed HD, when you watch it you'll know what I mean, but as said, it wasn't to serious.

I do have one question;
Q: During masking, as it removed the bricks, it smudged is there a way to fix this? As I had to smudge most of my scene during the lego was falling? Would really appreciate an answer. (When I say smudged, it changed the texture, the bricks color contrast as it smudged).

Besides that, can you guys tell me what you reckon?

I'd really like some feedback and review, and were I can improve.


LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK6oHsxqIww

And everyone else to, Please!

I also did easing and out, in the small parts, and shortened credits, special thanks are in description for this film!

Kind regards, Generalned

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Re: New Test/Scene Lego Pirates, Treasure Cove in HD

Not bad.
You did a much better job with the talking movements this time. You're getting it now!

With the gunshots, the arm didn't move back enough. You also might want to put the back into it as well.
For easing during a gunshot, you have two extremes (furthest points of the movement): the position where the gun is level (A) and the postion where the gun is back (B). You go from A to B then back to A. Don't ease out of A, don't ease in or out of B, and ease in back to A. (Easing in is the easing when you're moving into a postion and easing out is the easing when you're moving out of a postion.) Sometimes, no easing is used to give impact.

With the masking, here's a method that I came up with that might help (called Double Rigging):

I wrote:

To do it, you take the usual rig-on-the-bottom frame first. In the next frame, have a rig supporting it from the top. Make sure the object you want floating is in the same place in both frames. Then, mask out the rig in the first frame using the second frame as the backround plate. The result is smooth masking with realistic shadows.

Make sure the camera is steady!
That was probably your problem, though (the camera not being steady).

Not literally dead, just no longer interested in Lego or animation.
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Re: New Test/Scene Lego Pirates, Treasure Cove in HD

Pretty good masking job.  Now, I pledged not to use making in my ongoing series, so I make things float with clear bricks and hidden parts and stuff, but I'm 100% for the use of masking.  The credits were the most minimal yet.  I recommend always marking (c) on all your works, as everything you do is copyrighted to yourself technically, whether or not it's registered with the government. 

You can also watch an example of easing and delayed secondary reaction on the featured video at http://youtube.com/holdingourown 
Now, the Johnny animation is pretty choppy, but focus on Brent.  Watch when Brent lifts up his arm while holding the purple screwdriver (0:10).  You'll see the hand go a bit beyond the point of rest, then snap back  (d.s.r.).  When he turns the his hand while holding the screwdriver, you'll see that the motions are very slight as he starts and ends the motion, and more broad in the middle of the motion.  (easing)

https://vimeo.com/channels/holdingourown      http://holding-our-own.tumblr.com

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  • Location: Australia
  • Joined: January 6, 2011

Re: New Test/Scene Lego Pirates, Treasure Cove in HD

Hey Minifig051

With the gunshots, the arm didn't move back enough. You also might want to put the back into it as well.
For easing during a gunshot, you have two extremes (furthest points of the movement): the position where the gun is level (A) and the postion where the gun is back (B). You go from A to B then back to A. Don't ease out of A, don't ease in or out of B, and ease in back to A.

I'm just a little confused with the above, so when you say move the hand back, do you mean, pull it up as the gun shoots? Or psyically move his body back as it shoots, would that be by lifting his left leg behind and moving a little back, or a little turned? Sorry I'm still learning about the easing in and easing out.

To do it, you take the usual rig-on-the-bottom frame first. In the next frame, have a rig supporting it from the top. Make sure the object you want floating is in the same place in both frames. Then, mask out the rig in the first frame using the second frame as the backround plate. The result is smooth masking with realistic shadows.

And this I'm sorry I'm really confused with this as well, I really want to know how to do it, because I hated how it smudged and removed the realistic shadowing. But I don't understand when you say rig is it the lego block thats holding the minifig? and how do I put the rig on top to hold him? and if I use the first frame using the second background how do I remove the rig from the second? Thats were I'm a little confused, you probably are explaining it great, no dough, I'm just still learning so I am a little confused!

But thanks for your reply and great tips!

Hey Holdingourown, thanks for your reply!

Pretty good masking job.

Thanks man!

The credits were the most minimal yet.  I recommend always marking (c) on all your works, as everything you do is copyrighted to yourself technically, whether or not it's registered with the government.

Yea I made them very short to make it realistic, to the film as it was short. Do you have an example for the (c) marking by any chance, so I can get a clear example.

I totally understand what you mean't on the easing, I'm going to watch it again, just to learn the aspect. I learn better visually, but verbal is fine to.
Thanks for the link and your reply! I really appreciate it!

Thanks so much guys for your feedback, really appreciate it! Look forward to see your guys feedback in my next film!

Kind regards Generalned

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Re: New Test/Scene Lego Pirates, Treasure Cove in HD

Generalned wrote:

Hey Minifig051

With the gunshots, the arm didn't move back enough. You also might want to put the back into it as well.
For easing during a gunshot, you have two extremes (furthest points of the movement): the position where the gun is level (A) and the postion where the gun is back (B). You go from A to B then back to A. Don't ease out of A, don't ease in or out of B, and ease in back to A.

I'm just a little confused with the above, so when you say move the hand back, do you mean, pull it up as the gun shoots? Or psyically move his body back as it shoots, would that be by lifting his left leg behind and moving a little back, or a little turned? Sorry I'm still learning about the easing in and easing out.

To do it, you take the usual rig-on-the-bottom frame first. In the next frame, have a rig supporting it from the top. Make sure the object you want floating is in the same place in both frames. Then, mask out the rig in the first frame using the second frame as the backround plate. The result is smooth masking with realistic shadows.

And this I'm sorry I'm really confused with this as well, I really want to know how to do it, because I hated how it smudged and removed the realistic shadowing. But I don't understand when you say rig is it the lego block thats holding the minifig? and how do I put the rig on top to hold him? and if I use the first frame using the second background how do I remove the rig from the second? Thats were I'm a little confused, you probably are explaining it great, no dough, I'm just still learning so I am a little confused!

But thanks for your reply and great tips!

Push the arm up (closer to his head) and the torso back, with the legs staying in the same place.

A "rig" is the thing supporting the object in midair.
Make a rig that is a column with a (thin) beam going horizontal out of it, which will hold your object. Either connect it with a brick connection or use poster putty to stick the object to the rig. Make sure the rigs don't overlap!
Whichever frame you choose to mask, use the other one as the background plate. You won't need that other frame after you mask, just get rid of it. Make sure you mask in the entire shadow if you're masking out the bottom rig!

Not literally dead, just no longer interested in Lego or animation.
  • Location: Australia
  • Joined: January 6, 2011

Re: New Test/Scene Lego Pirates, Treasure Cove in HD

A "rig" is the thing supporting the object in midair.
Make a rig that is a column with a (thin) beam going horizontal out of it, which will hold your object. Either connect it with a brick connection or use poster putty to stick the object to the rig. Make sure the rigs don't overlap!
Whichever frame you choose to mask, use the other one as the background plate. You won't need that other frame after you mask, just get rid of it. Make sure you mask in the entire shadow if you're masking out the bottom rig!

Thanks for your reply!
Ok so, I got the other part now here, I'm still just a little confused, heres were im lost, the rig as in the thin beam that supports the top, how do I keep it in the same position is it not harder to hold an object from up high so wouldn't it therefore move it a little even?

And if I didn't want to go for full realistic setting, I am still a little confused as at times I'm rubbing off the minifig can you tell me how to avoid this? I took a background original photo, then used a fight scene with movement, is there a way to fix this? I made my rig, a 4 piece by 2 block wen I only needed 2 b 2, still however I would have rubbed off part of minifig.

Thanks in advance,

Kind regards, Generalned

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Re: New Test/Scene Lego Pirates, Treasure Cove in HD

Generalned wrote:

A "rig" is the thing supporting the object in midair.
Make a rig that is a column with a (thin) beam going horizontal out of it, which will hold your object. Either connect it with a brick connection or use poster putty to stick the object to the rig. Make sure the rigs don't overlap!
Whichever frame you choose to mask, use the other one as the background plate. You won't need that other frame after you mask, just get rid of it. Make sure you mask in the entire shadow if you're masking out the bottom rig!

Thanks for your reply!
Ok so, I got the other part now here, I'm still just a little confused, heres were im lost, the rig as in the thin beam that supports the top, how do I keep it in the same position is it not harder to hold an object from up high so wouldn't it therefore move it a little even?

And if I didn't want to go for full realistic setting, I am still a little confused as at times I'm rubbing off the minifig can you tell me how to avoid this? I took a background original photo, then used a fight scene with movement, is there a way to fix this? I made my rig, a 4 piece by 2 block wen I only needed 2 b 2, still however I would have rubbed off part of minifig.

Thanks in advance,

Kind regards, Generalned

If you use a frame capture program with onionskinning, onionskinning really helps with that.
If not, then you just toggle between the live view and the previous frame to see if it's in the same place.

Yes, in Double Rigging you are rubbing out some of the object you're suspending. But if you have the same object in the same place in both frames, it doesn't matter if you erase some of the object because the object is in both frames instead of just one (erasing the top layer will reveal the same object underneath, so it looks as if the object has't been erased at all). This allows you to be a less precise in masking (the only way to get smooth masking the single-rig way is to be VERY precise).

Not literally dead, just no longer interested in Lego or animation.
  • Location: Australia
  • Joined: January 6, 2011

Re: New Test/Scene Lego Pirates, Treasure Cove in HD

If you use a frame capture program with onionskinning, onionskinning really helps with that.
If not, then you just toggle between the live view and the previous frame to see if it's in the same place.
Yes, in Double Rigging you are rubbing out some of the object you're suspending. But if you have the same object in the same place in both frames, it doesn't matter if you erase some of the object because the object is in both frames instead of just one (erasing the top layer will reveal the same object underneath, so it looks as if the object has't been erased at all). This allows you to be a less precise in masking (the only way to get smooth masking the single-rig way is to be VERY precise).

Hey Minifig, Haha, I ended figuring it was what you said, sorry for the late reply, I been working on a new film, its actually a trailer, and I did more masking however, I did not do the method you suggested, as I really wanted to get it done however, this project I'm doing right now the masking was killing me,
whats worse I mean I should have known but I used a 4 piece by 2 lego brick and honestly it makes such a big difference compared to a 2 by 2 piece, especially since I didn't take the photo every frame and use that last frame with original background, it
was a nightmare, for like 2 second shoot it took me over an hour or 2.

Wow, I finished it now, but was shortened a little, Thank you for confirming and telling me about the masking and rigs, I really appreciate all your replies and tips
along with your useful wisdom, so thanks mate! I have another 2 or 3 different scenes to create, but it shouldn't take to long, Yes I have actually added different scenes to my film, well this is a trailer for a film I really want to
create.

Kind regards Generalned

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