I agree, with your shadows moving, it becomes obvious the you're moving the set and not the camera. it looks bad. You should never move the set. Always the camera. There are ways to do it without bumps. You just need to be careful and imaginative.

I've achieved smooth dollies by moving the camera sideways in tiny increments before. It just takes a little pratice and care.

Last edited by StudioL30 (April 24, 2011 (06:38am))

I know. There's also a reason real people film in front of a real sky instead of a green screen, yet we use a greenscreen. Funny. What I'm saying is: if you find yourself unable to make smooth dollies by moving the camera, move the set. Not more. You don't need to do that, I was just trying to help. Either I am an idiot, or my LEGO is different from yours, or my LEGO rigs just were inferior to yours, or we have different ideas of smoothness. I didn't achieve the desired effect by moving the camera, and I'm sure there are other people out there who don't, aswell. These people: try moving the set, please.

'nuff said.

Yes it shoud. And now it is!

So let me get this straight Pacific. You want us to move the whole entire set up, that could be around 3 feet by three feet if not more, except for the camera? Rather than a camera, which could, judging the average webcam, be around 5 inches wide including the cage? That sounds a bit crazy. And what do you mean camera bumps? Isn't the point of the dolly shot to move the camera?

The point of a dolly shot is to move the camera in a steady, even motion, not to bump it around. That said, I still think it would be easier to move a small camera in a steady, even motion that an entire set. Some people have had nice results though - mounting your set on a turntable can work quite well.