Bricks in Motion
We are a friendly filmmaking community devoted to the art of stop-motion animation using LEGO® and similar construction toys. Here, you can share your work, join our community of other brickfilmers, and participate in periodic animation contests!
A place to discuss, share, and create stop motion films.
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I made 2 brickfilms and I watched the but it was slow the lighting flickered plus it just sucked.Can any one give any tips are pointers?
"but it was slow"
Well, you need to animate at 15 frames per second in Monkeyjam or another stop motion program. Windows Movie maker is not a stop motion program. Also see this for animation tips.
"the lighting flickered"
To avoid light flicker, here are some tips to follow.
Avoid Daylight- cover all windows with cardboard or thick blankets to block out daylight, or animate at night.
Using lamps- Use a desk tamp to light your set, angle of light depends on how you want it.
Cover lamps- cover your lamps with paper, just avoid touching the paper to a bulb.
Black- Wear black clothing.
And see this for some tips.
"plus it just sucked"
Well, here are my tips.
Make a story before you animate, don't just animate and make a story as you go along, it never works.
Practice your animation at Least once a week.
Work on hard your sets and minifigures. I watched this, and it helped.
Thank you for this tips but do you know any stop motion programs that are free and work with vista or windows7
wait i do not care if it is not free i just want to know the best
http://www.giantscreamingrobotmonkeys.com/monkeyjam/
The easiest, free program.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omZ1wUoNf88
Tutorial
Other suggested tutorials:
http://www.rsteenoven.co.uk/page3.html
uh he doesnt have to use 15 fps you guys
others are 12 or 24 really us brickfilmers stick with the 3 but you dont need to only use 15 >: (
wait i do not care if it is not free i just want to know the best
bassmass1000 wrote:wait i do not care if it is not free i just want to know the best
Sean wrote:fib12345 wrote:
No, I prefer Dragon WAY more than AnimatorHD. It may be because of the different interfaces (Dragon looks really clean and professional, DV looks kind of cluttered with its layout), or maybe the face that you get an awesome keypad with Dragon. But I have used both and have a pretty clear idea of both programs.
3D Shooting in Dragon?
I use Stop Motion Pro v6. I love it so much. One of my best investments. Very simple and easy to use, I highly recommend it.
A good free program is SMA. It's very basic, but works.
I'm surprised no one's posted a link to this yet...
Has several free frame-capture programs.
3D Shooting in Dragon?
You don't necessarily 'shoot in 3D' with the frame capture but shoot either double frames (the same frame twice with an image to the left and an image to the right) and then from they are made in composites and put into one of the 3D format (red/blue, cross view, digital 3D ect.). So in a sense I don't think there is 3D shooting in Dragon, but you would (and should [the way 3D is shot in motion pictures]) using one of the methods of filming 3D. The two most common ways are either with a prism lens that with split the image into a left and right frame onto the censor, these cameras are incredibly expensive costing hundreds and hundreds of thousands of dollars. SIDE NOTE: At the film school I'm at right now, they brought in a pre production model of a 3D camera, isn't on the market yet, and you couldn't actually buy it because the companies that manufacture large format and specialty cinema cameras can't afford to make enough models to release to the public to buy. The only way you can get cameras like this (and even common ones like the Panavision Genisis) is to rent it from the company. With the prism lens 3D cameras you have to also have special software, costing easily $20,000USD, to be able to edit and render a format like this.
The other way to shoot 3D is not as demanding, simply just shooting with two cameras, each shooting what one eye would see. In the case of Coraline, they used one camera but on a slider that is pre measured and cut to stop the camera in the right spot on each side.
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