Thank you for your tips and suggestions!

Unfortunately, as much as I would like to try this tip, I do not have anything small enough to unscrew the new 18-55 VR II lens, they are barely 2mm each. A really mysterious mystery is that I've had the exact same lens when I used the D3100 and that problem was solved by applying the exposure combination I mentioned earlier and the shots came out fantastically focused, detailed, and lighten. Do you think that the current lens are damaged? I did get them in a bundle kit with the D5200 unlike the D3100 18-55mm VR II lenses that were separately delivered to me in a separate retail box from the factory.

Also, I just tried the longer exposure with the minimum aperture tip you mentioned (without unscrewing the lens) and it gave the worst results. Every image was 20%-30% brighter/darker than the other, the 10 frame animation came out to be a mess. The only exposure that works without any eye-noticeable flicking is f/11, ISO 1K, and shutter speed of 1/13, or the one I've mentioned earlier. But basically, what I've noticed is that you have to "balance" it, if you move one up you have to move the other one down including the ISO, or else it will come out to be an absolute disco-ball mess. It also becomes terrific once the aperture is higher than 14, no matter if it's "balanced" or not.

I see what you meant,

The D5200 showed no warnings for me, it just showed a white screen and no aperture once the lens were completely removed. But you were right, the aperture is at 0.00 (F-29 minimal) and there are no flicks at all. That's pretty disappointing, I have to increase the shutter and ISO a bit too much to get a proper image. Absolute no control over the aperture makes it pretty annoying.

But why did it never happen to me on the previous 18-55 VR II lenses with the D3100? I simply increased the aperture and it showed no flicker.

Is there a way to fix the flicking with the lens attached/clipped?

Thank you for your suggestions, you've helped a lot.

Atleast you've scripted the problem that I'll be explaining to Nikon Inc. on Monday using customer service. I really believe it is because of the sloppy lenses that I received in the D5200 kit. I will try to either return it and buy them both separately, or call Nikon and tell them to replace the bundle kit ones with separate box lenses, since again, it never happened with the previous retail 18-55 VRIIs, I animated with those lenses for about two years and never saw any noticeable flickering. Plus, it is really weird how there are so many animators out there using the 18-55, but not that many reports/complaints about this specific problem.

I guess until then, I'll have to use your method, which also gives pretty sweet results.

If anyone else has a method/solution, please feel free to reply.

I'm beginning to have the same thought too. The lens do have an impressive amount of oil on their frames, and the mechanisms are pretty close to that area. I guess it's just the same old usual kit lens failure that happens in almost every package.

Btw, I also tried to film a scene with the tip you suggested. Everything looks very... different...  mostly everything in the set is in focus and I must ask you if that type of animating looks... realistic enough? Plus, the main figure has unfocused by a tiny bit. I believe it's good for close range scenes, but not for everything.

Also, there are tons of brickfilmers who use DSLRs and saw this topic, but none of them replied. And I don't believe each one and one of them bought the Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 Micro. I am really confident that many use the lens they've received in their kit without having this problem. I think it is a deflect just with my lens.

It was never mentioned that Canon users can't help Do you experience the problem with your Canon/Canon lens? Perhaps it is more efficient to return the camera and get a Canon?

So, in short, your problem is that your new camera (the D5200) with the kit lens is producing a lot of light flicker? When I used a kit lens, I got a good bit of flicker most of the time. Though, other times, I seemed to not have flicker at all. It's not unusual for kit lenses to have flicker, and inconsistencies (due to the electronically controlled aperture not closing the same every time).

From my experience, the setup you are using sounds like the worst thing you could possibly do. The slower shutter speeds will let ore light in the camera, allowing each frame to be more consistent. With the faster shutter speeds, there is much more inconsistency, due to the speed the shutter has to close. (However, I may be wrong, so don't quote me on this ) Though, it isn't usually the camera that produces the flicker, it is mostly the lens. I also recommend that you use a lower ISO 800 is the max for the least amount of grain. White balance has nothing to do with light flicker at all.

Ok, it's definitely your lens then. Have you made sure to turn off Vibration Reduction on the lens and Active-D lighting on the camera? These cause flicker.

Un-screwing your lens will leave you without control over your aperture. However, there is a (rather hacky) solution. In fact, Squid uses it all the time. Here is a post which talks about jamming the aperture lever with paper and keeping the lens unscrewed halfway which will allow you to have an open aperture and reduce light flicker. Keep in mind, that you cannot change the aperture at all. I don't recommend this method, though. I recommend that you get another lens. Manual lenses (old Nikon lenses will do, but there are plenty of other lenses to choose from, like the Helios 44-2, for example).

Though, like Sloth said, if you have a choice, go back and return the Nikon camera and go for a Canon. I recently made the switch from a Nikon D3100 to a Canon, and even the entry level Canons have good features like Live View, tethering, etc. Also, get manual lenses, those are the best thing you can do. I am not sure which Canon camera to recommend to you, however, because I haven't been into Canon products for long (though, I will say that my SL1 is a really good camera).

YouTube • Website

"Whatever you do, do all to the glory of God." - 1 Corinthians 10:31b

I want to thank you gentlemen for your tips, suggestions, and help.

First of all, I do agree with you about the manual lenses. They are much easier to animate with, they give you full control over your aperture, and absolutely destroy the flickering. However, I still prefer the newer manual lenses, since they still offer a 2 year warranty on them, means they replace them for you if anything happens during the 2 year period. And I also live 10 minutes driving from their repair center.

Second of all, I have an opportunity to return the camera and get a Canon SL1 with the same lens kit. But I do not think I will, since in my opinion, Nikon is the best camera for stop-motion animations. Both kits are at the same price, and Nikon has a 30% quality advantage. Plus, as an animator, you will gain much more benefits from the Nikon 2 year warranty unlike the 1 year Canon warranty. An entry level Nikon camera frame lifespan is approximately 150,000 pictures, as an animator who takes thousands of pictures weekly, your frame will need replacement within the first year, or in other words, you will need to replace your camera every year or year and a half. And as I mentioned earlier, I live pretty close to the warranty center.

Rioforce, I don't understand how you've had problems with your D3100, right now, I regret for selling mine. I had absolutely clean images without any flicker in the right exposure balance. Unlike with my current camera. I also just asked Titan Pictures from YouTube about the same problem, he said he has never experienced anything like that with his 18-55mm lens. I do believe that some people get deflected lens in their bundle kits, since the lens in my Nikon D3100 were from a separate retail box.

Also, a little update, I just decreased the aperture to 7.1 and zoomed into a figure, and the flickering was 100% absolutely gone. Once I minimized the zoom, it flickered again.