I'm not farmilliar with Cannon cameras, but I can understand your problem. The photo and the live view/video are independent from each other exposure-wise. The photos use Shutter Speed and Aperture, while the live view/video use exposure and don't rely on the shutter. On my Nikon D3100, the exposure it automatically controlled, so it keeps the video constantly lit. Basically, you need to figure out how to control the exposure of the live view. Maybe if you adjusted your exposure compensation or something. Like I said, I a not positive, because I have never used a Cannon camera.

EDIT: I found this article which tells how to adjust the live view exposure on Canon cameras. Good luck.

http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/ … anon-dslr/

Last edited by rioforce (October 13, 2014 (04:41pm))

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Hmmm, well, I just got the lens I intend to use for brickfilming (the 50mm F1.8 prime lens) and tried it out with the extension tubes, and it works perfectly--I have no issues with the live view.  Previously I had used the kit lens, so it could be an issue with that, though I'm not sure.

Though, I think I might end up returning these tubes in favour of a pair which have an electronic connection between the camera body and lens, so I can control the aperture (with this pair, I can't control it, it automatically goes to the lowest F-stop).  I thought it wouldn't be an issue, since I'd put everything in manual mode for brickfilming anyway, but I think it'd be good to be able to adjust it nonetheless.

Can anyone tell me why the 50mm f/1.8 seems like such a popular lens for brick filmers? Typically I find myself stopped down to f/5.6 or more as you tend to have to much boka. The 50mm is not a macro lens so if it was cheaper than a 55mm f/3.5 micro lens it won't be after you pick up some extention tubes.

I have both the 50mm f/1.8 and the 55mm f/3.5 micro and I can't see a reason to use the 50mm for animation. It's great for photos of people, but it does not seem practical for smaller subjects.

Bumpityy-bump.  I'm still having trouble.  I got a manual Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens off eBay and want to test it out.  However, I've connected it to the camera and I'm still having this issue.  I've tried to do what the article Rioforce linked suggests, but using the Av+/- button and top dial does nothing on my camera and I don't know what else to do.  Any suggestions?

Your camera thinks it can open the aperture up to f/2.2 or whatever the lens, so it is not correcting for how dark it actually is, the image on the back of the camera is set for your current frame rate with the aperture wide open, this is why programs like Dragon Frame have a live view exposure adjustment that goes from -4 to +4, the images on your camera are dark by design. As far as I can tell animating with a live view camera without capture software is the same as animating with an older non-live view camera.

I looked at this article which tells you how to lighten and darken the live view image but it does not work for full manual lenses.

Well on a normal auto lens the aperture is opened wide before shooting and when you press the shutter it drops down to whatever you set it at, this makes it easier to get enough light in the view finder to be able to frame and focus your image, however that is why normal automatic lenses are bad for stop motion, if the aperture is released each frame tiny variations in image make it appear to flicker.

Edit: *fixed link*

That is because without being able to communicate with the camera lens the camera thinks the aperture is something like f/1 vs the f/2.2 of your lens, with no input the camera has no idea what your aperture range.

You have 3 options:

• Shoot blind

• Pony up $300 for a copy of Dragon Frame

• Get a preview light that is around 1000W and turn it off every time you take a frame