DSLR cameras are great for stop motion, and yes you can plug them in and use them in a stop motion program, in fact a lot of stop motion programs are mostly specifically designed for DSLRs.

MJ and HF do not work with DSLRs. StopMotionPro, Dragonframe and AnimatorHD do however.
The only free option for animating with a DSLR is using the camera software to take the pictures, and then stringing them all together later.

Lowering the image size or heavily compressing them would destroy most of the advantages of using a DSLR. If you want quality, you're just going to have to bit the bullet on that point.

There are innumerable threads here on BiM related to DSLRs, the capture programs and techniques needed, and the other complications that come with a more professional set up like that. A few minutes of searching should help answer most of your questions.

And aren't there several brickfilmers who just use the default lens that comes with the thing?

Hey there PritchardStudios, thanks alot for your helpful insight on the software and information you have provided,

So there is no way no lower image size without compressing or effecting the quality of the image?

If there isn't I guess biting the bullet will be worth in the long run,

So in other words, I don't need to buy a remote control for the camera?

Thanks so much for your reply, I have seen a few threads on DSLR's but I worried as I did not think each DSLR

would be compatible with every software, and how do I plug it in, to use it via computer to take photos? Is it just be USB? I though cameras only plug into USB ports if there transferring images?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm very new to the DSLR side of things!

Hey there Repelling Spider! Thanks for your great and very helpful reply as well,

I agree with you, and do apologize about not mentioning my camera beforehand, the DSLR, is a Canon EOS 1100D, Please tell me what you(s) think of it, whether it will be good, is it good or not, as I am still new to the DSLR side, I went from a Logitech C920 to this so it was a big step,
I really didn't know they could be operated remotely as soon as plugged in Repelling spider, as I was told they work as a camera, when plugged in, they can't be turned on as it is only for transferring data, I believe you when you say it, I don't why they said that tho, maybe a mistake, or mismatch on a different sort of camera.

Is it not wise to use a DSLR for stop motion? I do like taking photos in general, but the sole purpose of this DSLR was to be for brickfilming, is it harder with a DSLR or something?

The interchangeable Lens have been something I have wanted for a long time, I also really like the shutter feature, moving it around to zoom in, and zoom out, I really do enjoy that,

The funny thing is I still have not even opened up my DSLR, I am that terrifed of it, that I came here for help first, and I got this early yesterday morning haha.

WOW, that's great, Repelling spider, as I got the 18-55mm lens as well! And your films are really well done with it, have they all been used with it? Also is there a zoom feature on it? And what is the optical zoom? 5x? 8x?

And are Macro Lens expensive to buy?

Thank you all for your great replies, I really do appreciate it, as they have been very helpful for me.

Kind regards,
Generalned

DSLRs are a large investment for brickfilming. You are probably going to want to get an AC Adapter for your camera so it constantly has power when filming. There is nothing worse than the batteries dying on you when in the middle of a scene. The camera you bought is decent low level DLSR. It will take decent photos and will do just fine for brickfilming. Lenses are tricky and expensive. For now I would stick to the kit lens and get comfortable with the camera. This will give you a better idea of what you want in a lens. Just play around with your camera and you will pick up on how to use it in no time.

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Hey AquaMorph, thanks for your response, I probably will and should get an AC adapter as you are correct, it would be frustrating for it to die during a scene, that'd be a real pain!

At the time I though I had got the twin pack, I was upset to know it was only single one,

I just wanted to ask you, I'm very confused being a first time user for DSLR's in general, I don't know if its me or not,
All the photos I was taking were coming out blurry, even at AF mode, they still were blurred or not as good as they should be, I played around and got better quality however what really, really bothers me, and I don't know if this is normal or not, is when you go to take a photo, and this is through computer I was using EOS utility (Thanks Repelling spider) Anyhow as I take the photo there is a square in the center I noticed you can move it around now the thing that bothers me is it focuses, only were the square thing is, the other parts all get blurry, so How can I take a good shot, when I can only focus on were the square goes?
Thanks again for your response if you can help me out it'd be very appreciative and beneficial.

Hey there Repelling Spider,
Thanks for your response, it's good to know my camera will do well for brickfilming, I do want to use it, and Yes I finally did open it! I did install the EOS utility thanks for the link, and the suggestion, however as I stated to AquaMorph I am having trouble focusing out of the square box, as it is very frustrating, and annoying, and when I take images of a bunch of lego characters, for some reason the ones infront are out of focus, and are blurred while others are ok, and this is on MF as well, to the point you can't focus it no more, and I have seen your videos and they are crystal clear quality, so I might be doing something wrong being the fact, are Lens are the same.

I hope you(s) can help out, I would really appreciate it alot, as I don't want my money to go to waste.

Kind regards,
Generalned

The problem you are experiencing seems to me to due to the shallow depth of field. This is something very different in comparison to a webcam. In order to get a wider range of focus you'll need to set your aperture f/stop number to something fairly high, like f/9 or f/14.  Even higher. You don't necessarily want to have a super wide focus range though... I rarely ever exceed an f number of 9 I'd say. Read up on how manual mode works and how exposure works on DSLRs. There are plenty of resources online to learn.

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What I meant is that when the aperture is increased to a higher number the image will get darker, so you have to use a slower shutter speed in order to make up for the lost light. A slower shutter speed will give you a brighter image. There's a setting in the menu to adjust the brightness of the LCD screen, that should help you.

Youtube Channel

Here is information about optimal camera settings. Shutter speed, aperture, ISO, ...

Yah, that link summarizes it all.

Youtube Channel