Topic: Canon Lens Selection

I was wondering if anyone could give me a recommendation on a good affordable camera lens in the brickfilming sense. I am using a Canon T2i. Now, I know that there will be a number of people who would tell me that the kit lens is just fine and that I needn't purchase anying else. Although I will admit that the kit lens can be useful for many shots, to me it is not really an ideal lense for my current purposes. Also, I have a birthday coming up so I thought that I may as well take advantage of the situation.

So now that we've got that part out of the way, what would you guys suggest? What do you Canon rebel owners typically use?

It seems to me that Nikkon lenses are the preffered choices (with an adapter, of course). I have noted that the Builder Brothers use a Nikon Micro-Nikkor 55 mm f/3.5 lens for close ups and NXTManiac uses a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 lens and a Nikkor f/3.5-4.5 28-105mm zoom lens. I also have no idea what any of that means.

What I basically aim to find out is whether you DSLR users have any specific, standard, sturdy brickfilming lens in common or if it's just a "whatever works" kind of thing. I do hope it is not the latter, because I cannot really afford the trial and error process at this time. But then, that is why I am posting this in the first place.

Re: Canon Lens Selection

If you can get your hands on an adaptor as well, get a Nikon lens. Being new to the SLR world, I'm not sure what Canon has to offer at a low price, but I have a Nikon 18-55mm vibration reduction (VR) lens. If it's vr that you are after, Nikon seems to be the only brand of the 2 to have vr in the lower price range. If you want more mm, then it's obviously going to cost more, but I can't help other than what I've already said.

Having never tried a Canon lens, I can say that I think the Nikon vr lens does do a great job at stabilising each shot.

http://bit.ly/TJbPHP
http://bit.ly/P7RyJphttp://bit.ly/RNU0XLhttp://bit.ly/QxKGsdhttp://bit.ly/TC5hw7http://bit.ly/QzxQr7

Re: Canon Lens Selection

First of, I'm assuming that vibration reduction is the same thing as image stabilization, in which case there is no point going after that for brickfilming, because you have to turn it off anyway. As a photographer and brickfilmer, I tend to recommend that you never buy a used lens. Unless you're buying it from a camera store that will take it back if it doesn't work as it should, buying a used lens is very dangerous; you never know what the lens has been through, so there's a good chance that it won't last long (especially important in brickfilming) or that some specific part will fail. What it comes down to, though, is what purpose you're looking for. As far as close up shots go, macro filters are great because they're super cheap, and will give you a much closer shot than any macro lens, short of one that's going to cost you 1500 USD, even used. BTW, most macro filters are designed with special features that cost a lot of money and are only useful when shooting insects and other living creatures, or that give you extra clarity that can't be seen in a 1080p video. Since LEGO Minifigures don't tend to run away, at least in my experience, and video can't be rendered in 18 Megapixels (1080p is 2 Megapixels) I don't think they're necessary. Before anyone knocks the quality of macro filters, please watch Egyptian Holiday, which used macro filters. If you want a lens that's wider than 18mm, it's going to cost you, especially to get one with a useful minimum focusing distance. If you want better glass, that's also going to cost you, but I can go into more detail if you want. Sorry to talk so much. mini/smile

Re: Canon Lens Selection

BackyardLegos wrote:
As far as close up shots go, macro filters are great because they're super cheap, and will give you a much closer shot than any macro lens, short of one that's going to cost you 1500 USD, even used.

Now there we go. I have heard people mention these macro filters before but still I am not sure that I have a very good understanding of what they are. Would you mind laying out straight for me the pros and cons of using them? Also, what lens do you use?

As for anyone else, please don't hesitate to keep your input and recomendations coming. I'd like to get well grounded on this matter of lenses.

Re: Canon Lens Selection

I personally use the T2i kit lens, and it's worked great for me. It has a closer minimum focusing distance than any other lens that I've found. I just bought a lens for normal photography use, and don't plan on spending a whole lot of money right now (starving college student). Macro filters are literally just a magnifying lens that screws onto the front of a lens. Along with making the image appear larger to your camera, the way a magnifying glass does when you look through it, it also brings your camera much closer to the subject. While theoretically this can be a problem with the camera getting in the way of lighting, I use the Canon 60D, which is physically larger than the T2i, and I haven't had a problem yet. They give you a very shallow depth of field, but so is any lens that will get you that close. In my experience they haven't lowered quality at all. They tend to come in sets of different powers, which allows versatility in the shot you want. I've used them many times, and I've always been satisfied with the results. Personally, I think they're totally worth it for the 12 bucks I paid for them. mini/smile

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Please be reminded that you do not need image stabilization(or vr) in your lens. In fact it's better to have it off because you already have the camera still and all it will do is try to "compensate" for no motion, which means it will shift the composition of a shot. Believe me, I've tried it myself. I would try the magnifying lenses that you stick on the front of your lens. It will work fine for stop motion.

http://www.usa.canon.com/assets/app/images/callouts/cameras/callout_hdvideo_091511.jpg    http://www.usa.canon.com/assets/app/images/callouts/cameras/cdlc_148_rt.jpg

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Alright then. In getting close ups (which was a main issue), it seems that these Macro Filters have won the day for now. A good starting place I suppose.

But then, there's also the matter that some people say the kit lens (18-55mm) experiences lighting flicker from time to time, and if you want to eliminate that, you should really buy a Nikon Lens. Does anyone have a comment on that?

If that really is true then now would be the opportune time for me to buy one, or really soon.

And now, regarding Macro Filters, I hope you will allow me to go into some specifics. I'm not sure where to find any in stores where I live so I looked on Amazon.com.

Is this what you guys were referring to:  http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Concepts- … cro+filter ?

I also found this: http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Canon-Ex … cro+filter . Would you say that is nessesary as well?

Thank you, you guys, for puting up with my inexperience and thank you to anyone else who takes the time to lend some input.

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Well I can add a bit of input as to the light flicker issue with the 18-55mm. That's the only lens I've ever used for my films. It seems that it really varies depending on who you ask. Some people experience a ton of light flicker and it just doesn't work well. I, on the other hand, have used it for quite some time and can manage the light flicker somewhat well (check out a few of my videos if you want to see for sure). I don't know if it's just because people aren't using it right or what. I will admit it is very particular though and I'm pretty sure that the older Nikkor lenses might be better. I'll probably end up buying one or two in the future. Hope some of that helps.

Re: Canon Lens Selection

The first link is exactly what we're talking about. As far as the second thing goes, I really know nothing about them, and can't say anything about them until I try them myself, which I think I might do, being only 10 dollars. mini/smile

Re: Canon Lens Selection

The reason why there might b light flicker with any lens with an automatic aperture is because it closes at the very slightest different increments when a picture is taken. Therefore you would want a Nikon Manual lens. This is one where you have to adjust the aperture mechanically in the lens itself. Because you can select it on the lens mechanically, it will not have to move when you take the picture. So I suggest going ahead and getting some Nikon manual lenses with an adapter. I definitely recommend getting a 50mm prime Nikon lens, but you'll have to ask the rest of the guys to see if there are other ones that you would need in addition to the 50mm.

http://www.usa.canon.com/assets/app/images/callouts/cameras/callout_hdvideo_091511.jpg    http://www.usa.canon.com/assets/app/images/callouts/cameras/cdlc_148_rt.jpg

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Okay. So it seems like I would be doing good to get a Nikon lens. I'll probably still try out those macro filters as well, though, since they are so economic. mini/smile

So now I will go into specifics again. I searched "50mm Prime Nikon Lens" on Amazon and this is the first thing that came up: http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-50mm-Nikkor … kon+manual If anyone out there could stop by and give their input on this that would be great. Like I said, I don't really know much about lenses and stuff so every little comment that you guys are dropping is very helpful to me.

Basically what I want is a good sturdy lens for standard brickfilming and I'm thinking that for now I could use macro filters from there.

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Jayko, if you're interested in manual, Nikon lenses I would recommend watching this video.

It's geared more towards the video-DSLR user, but it will still be helpful to you. I've gotten some dirt-cheap lenses on the website that he recommends (KEH).

Also remember that your Canon T2i has a 1.5x crop, so if you're wanting a 50mm lens, a 28mm lens might be what you want (28mm x 1.5 = 42mm). If you get a 50mm lens that will end up being closer to 75mm.

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Thankyou very much, Cinexcellence, for that link. I found it quite helpful.

Alright. So I went to that site and found a few deals that I thought interesting. I will now post the links to them and let anyone give their advice who may. ("Man, can't this guy make any decisions by himself?!")

http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Manual- … 31510?r=FE That one seems to be the same one I mentioned the Builder Brothers had at the top. Is it?

http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Manual- … 45110?r=FE

http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Manual- … 18260?r=FE That one seemed pretty affordable. mini/smile

http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Manual- … 9000N?r=FE

I'm kind of leaning toward the first one. Is that wise? Any feedback on any of these couldn't be more welcome.

Cinexcellence wrote:
Also remember that your Canon T2i has a 1.5x crop, so if you're wanting a 50mm lens, a 28mm lens might be what you want (28mm x 1.5 = 42mm). If you get a 50mm lens that will end up being closer to 75mm.

Now there you kind of lost me. All this "mm" and cropping stuff still confuses me so feel free to explain it in the most elementary way. Isn't the bigger the better? Wouldn't someone want a 50mm lens over a 28mm lens?

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Okay, the measurement of mm is used to describe 2 parts of the lens (I know, confusing, right?). The filter size, and the focal length (how far in the lens is zoomed). With filter size, yes, bigger is better. A larger filter size allows more light into the lens, meaning that a higher shutter speed or a smaller aperture can be used in slightly lower light conditions. Focal length is entirely different. The fewer mm the wider the shot, and the more mm the closer zoomed in the shot. (I have 2 great shots for a comparison, but I can't find one of them, sorry). The crop sensor factor that Cinexcellence mentioned isn't that important (maybe), but I'll explain it. There are different size sensors in different cameras. The sensor is the part of the camera that actually reads the light and converts it to an image. Very few cameras actually have full frame sensors, only the most expensive professional level cameras. All other Canon cameras have a 1.6x size sensor, which because it's smaller than a full frame sensor, it only reads part of the image coming in through the lens, it's sort of pre-zoomed in. To find out what the focal length effectively is, multiply the focal length of the lens by 1.6. However, you don't need to do this. When buying a lens, especially a prime (non-zoom) lens, I suggest that you set up a small set with Minifigs, and zoom the lens that came with the T2i and zoom it to the focal length of the lens you're considering (the numbers on the top of the lens in the silver band indicate focal length) and see if the size of the frame and how zoomed it is works for you. I also wouldn't suggest a 135mm lens for brickfilming, that would be completely useless (unless you want your camera 20 feet from your set mini/tongue ). So there's my third long rant about camera stuff (it took so long I was logged out). mini/smile

Re: Canon Lens Selection

@BackyardLegos- Okay then, I am trying to wrap my mind around this. What I don't understand is why you called the lenses 135mm. I see the 135, but I only see the 35mm after it. So... which of those is the filter size and which is the focul length again?

You'll have to be patient with me, my friend. I am a slow learner but when I learn it, I learn it good. mini/smile

Re: Canon Lens Selection

The lens in the second and third link Has a 135mm focal length, the just left out the mm after it (no idea why). After a bit of browsing around the site I've determined that the 35mm is simply referring to the fact that it's an SLR lens, not the filter size, which makes more sense, because 35mm would be very small for a filter size. On that size specifically, look at the very first number in the name, that's the focal length; and ignore the 35mm, it just means SLR lens. A bit of more browsing for lenses I know by heart has revealed that the filter size is the number in the parenthesis; although for brickfilming purposes I wouldn't worry about that too much, it's not really important since you can use any shutter speed and control the lighting. mini/smile

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Okay that makes more sense then... sort of. I'm sure I'll come to understand it as I slowly get used to this sort of thing.

So what about that first link? ( http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Manual- … 31510?r=FE ) Would you recomend it or did you find anything better in your browsing?

Sorry for relying so much on your advice here. mini/wink

Last edited by Jayko (September 16, 2012 (08:15am))

Re: Canon Lens Selection

I've recently been looking at getting a lens upgrade to my kit lens on my T3i (600D).
I think I am going to buy
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Concepts- … cro+filter

I am also looking at getting a 50mm prime lens of some sort.

Re: Canon Lens Selection

So at this point it's really up to your personal preference. Check out what 55mm looks like, and some other standard fixed focal lengths (50mm, 35mm, etc.) with your current lens and see what you like. If you have a good tripod, then you can have the camera varying distances away from your set, but if you don't you probably want something wider. I'd like to point out that you can always make a prime lens more zoomed in with filters, but you can't zoom it out. mini/smile

Re: Canon Lens Selection

Jayko wrote:

But then, there's also the matter that some people say the kit lens (18-55mm) experiences lighting flicker from time to time, and if you want to eliminate that, you should really buy a Nikon Lens. Does anyone have a comment on that?

I have a Canon 550D (T2i), and I'm using the 18-55mm kit lens.

Sometimes, I get a lot of light flickers.

This morning, I just found this great article:
http://blogs.adobe.com/toddkopriva/2012 … raphy.html

If you’re not in the market for a manual aperture lens and/or an expensive adapter, you can trick the camera body into cutting the communication with your lens by putting a piece of masking tape over the contacts on the rear element of the lens. However, this will just keep the iris permanently wide open. If you want to lock the aperture at a more closed down f-stop, follow these steps:

-Set the aperture on the camera body using the digital controls.
-Press the depth-of-field preview button (usually below the lens on the front of the camera body) and un-mount the lens while holding the button.
-Cover the lens contacts with tape (any kind that’s thin and won’t leave a residue or gum up the contacts).
-Reattach the lens without accidentally peeling off the tape.

The downside is these steps must be followed each time you want to change the aperture. The upside is that shooting stop-motion or creating a time-lapse usually takes quite a long time so the aperture won’t need to be changed quickly or very often.

I tried this trick and it works very well, I got no light flickers...

Oh yeaaah, I don't have to buy a new lens! This made my day! mini/bigsmile