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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[Forums - Bricks in Motion - Higher quality camera]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="http://bricksinmotion.com/forums/feed/atom/topic/14721/"/>
	<updated>2012-07-31T19:19:07Z</updated>
	<generator>PunBB</generator>
	<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/topic/14721/higher-quality-camera/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279857/#p279857"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[Hi Jayko. Although I do not own any of those DSLRs, it appears that a couple of differences between the T3 and T3i are that the T3i takes 18 mp pictures and shoots 1080p vid, while the T3 takes 12.2mp pictures and only shoots 720p vid. Also, the T3i can take 3.7 fps continuous shooting vs. 3 fps, and has a flip-out, variable-angle screen. The T2i has most of the aspects of the T3i, just without the flip-out screen, I think. :/
Hopefully this will help a bit. :)

Here are a couple of links that I found most of the info on:
[url=http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t3_18_55mm_is_ii_kit#Overview]T3[/url]
[url=http://usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t3i_18_55mm_is_ii_kit#Overview]T3i[/url]
[url=http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t2i_ef_s_18_55is_ii_kit#Overview]T2i[/url]]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[legoguy501]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/127231/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-31T19:19:07Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279857/#p279857</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279832/#p279832"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[Alright, I have another question to ask now. I've been looking around for good deals and I found one called a Canon EOS Rebel T3, which seems to be a little cheaper than both the Canon Rebel T3i and T2i. Could anyone tell me how it compares? Because I'm used to hearing about the T3i, but never the EOS T3. Are they basically the same?]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Jayko]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/127199/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-31T17:00:24Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279832/#p279832</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279467/#p279467"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[The T2i tends to be the best value base level DLSR to my knowledge. There's of course mid range cameras in between but it's not easy to find one that works with capture software, has sufficient manual controls (focus) and the like.

Repelling, the cord slips out through a rubber stopper in the battery compartment so it goes on tripods just fine.]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Siobhan]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/21/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-27T04:07:39Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279467/#p279467</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279454/#p279454"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[[quote][b]Squid Wrote:[/b]Hello, Jayko, welcome to BiM. [/quote]

Hi Sirsquid! Yeah, I was planning on waiting a few years and then joining and wowing everyone with my finished film, but I wanted some input on my dilemma so I created this account prematurely. :P

[quote][b]Squid Wrote:[/b] Switching your cameras part way through filming will cause a significant difference if you're going from webcam to SLR. If your film suddenly changes, it will look rather odd, though, much nicer, the contrast may make the beginning really bad. [/quote]

Hmm... Well the change would take place in the middle of it. It would start out with the high quality camera, then after a good deal of time it would sort of fade out and then come back in again with the lower quality webcam for about 10 minutes then change back to the SLR in the next scene. ..............Maybe they won't notice? :/

Hmm again. Hmm.... I kind of don't feel like reshooting a summers worth of work if you know what I mean. I guess my best bet would be to get the T2i and then decide.

TO ANYONE: Is the T2i the next step up then or is there anything more economic in between?]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Jayko]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/127199/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-27T01:36:29Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279454/#p279454</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279431/#p279431"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[[quote=Jayko]Another thing that I would like to know is will it look really strange if I switch cameras part way through production? Would I have to reshoot all my work so far? I expect to be working on this for at least a couple more years so I figure I should get my act together about now.[/quote]

Hello, Jayko, welcome to BiM. :) 
Switching your cameras part way through filming will cause a significant difference if you're going from webcam to SLR. If your film suddenly changes, it will look rather odd, though, much nicer, the contrast may make the beginning really bad.
You have a few options here:
1: wait until you finish the film to get a new camera. You'd have more money by then, most likely, you'd have your film done, and it wouldn't look inconsistent.

2: Switch it during filming. You'd have the nice camera, but it would be inconsistent.

3: Re-shoot the entire film with the new camera. Since you'd have more skill from already making the beginning before, it would be even better. Of course, it would take more time.

4: Ditch your film and get the new camera. Work on some new film wit a better idea. No worry about finishing that film, nor inconsistency. The problem would be it being a kinda bad habit the ditch film half-way finished, and you'd waste what you've already filmed.

I suggest you weigh the options and decide what you think would be best. :)]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Squid]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/3704/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-26T22:31:31Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279431/#p279431</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279427/#p279427"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[@Sean - Does the AC Adapter work even when on a tripod? Because it seems like the battery slot door would have to be open. I'm going to need to purchase one when I get Dragonframe but I'm not certain it's going to work with my tripod.]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Repelling Spider]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/124535/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-26T22:03:10Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279427/#p279427</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279425/#p279425"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[Sigh, if only Sony DSLRs could be tethered. IMO they are the best bang-for-the-buck; you can get the 24-megapixel a65 for only about $800. Even Canon's 7D is about $1,300. The closest competitor in megapixels [for the a65] by Canon is the 5D Mk II, and that's around $2,000 for the body only! (Mind you, it does have a full-frame sensor).
But Sean is right, as far as tethering and amazing EOS Live View support goes, the T2i is the way to go.]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Gopher]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/3633/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-26T21:35:46Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279425/#p279425</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279356/#p279356"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[If you're planning to make the jump to a DSLR (I got myself a 550D/Kiss X4/Rebel T2i, and it's a fantastic camera, especially for its price) I'd recommend investing in professional software to support it. One of my favourite things about using Dragon Stop Motion (now known as Dragonframe) is being able to fiddle with all the exposure, aperture etc settings inside of the application - so I don't have to touch the camera at all. Don't forget an AC adapter.

TL;DR - DSLR's are great, get a 550D. Also get pro software for it to play with such as Dragonframe.]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Siobhan]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/21/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-26T05:56:26Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279356/#p279356</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279355/#p279355"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[Thank you guys for your input. To answer a few questions, I am using Helium Frog and have been shooting at 1200 x 1600. No, I am not filming it in order; the scene I am working on is near the middle.

So, you guys think that a DSLR is a good idea and the transition should go over smoothly? Or is that just me being overly optimistic? 

Once again thank you for your help. It sounds like I could pull it off. Is there anything else that I should know?]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Jayko]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/127199/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-26T05:48:06Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279355/#p279355</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279116/#p279116"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[[quote=Jayko]
Although the Pro 9000 appears to be the most common of cameras, the holy grail for brickfilmers seems to be the Cannon Rebel T3i or T2i. Then there's also this Logitech c920 that I've heard about but I'm not sure what it is. 
[/quote]
Believe me, the holy grail for any cinematographer ain't in the Rebel line. That spot is reserved for the RED Epic. :yes: 

That opinion being stated, I'd say the major difference when you upgrade to a T2i/3i is the sensor size, which is most likely much larger than that of the QC 9000, allowing for better color, contrast and light to be shown. They shoot 18-MP stills. And I'm sure that the EOS Rebel cameras feature 1080p video processing, in contrast to the Pro 9000's 720p limit.
One factor I'd like to point out that will be a stark difference when filming with a DSLR is the depth-of-field. I don't own a 9000, but I'm assuming the sensor does not allow for great DOP except when filmed at macro lengths. If you switch to a decent DSLR in the middle of your filming, and use a lens with an aperture that allows for a soft background blur, viewers may see the difference [jumping from a sharp, in-focus background to a blurred, out-of-focus background. 
...Do correct me if I'm wrong about the DOP in the 9000.]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Gopher]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/3633/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-23T19:05:42Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279116/#p279116</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279101/#p279101"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[Huh? Lemme check...

Oh, I didn't see the "Widescreen" button before.  There's a 720p setting under the size options when you switch it to widescreen.  My bad.

I wasn't sure about the 4:3-16:9 thing, but I guess it differs from program to program (the only programs I've had experience using are Windows Movie Maker, Final Cut Pro (at school), and Lightworks).]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[minifig051]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/2879/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-23T17:46:22Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279101/#p279101</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279095/#p279095"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[[quote=minifig051]What kind of quality do you want?  If you want something like 1280x720, the 9000 can do that.
Yes, it's possible.  I've done it.

But you can't get that resolution with the software that came with the webcam.  The only way to get HD with the 9000 is by using it through a frame capture program that can do HD.  A free program I know of is Helium Frog.  I use Stop Motion Pro (version Action! HD), which is a paid program, but I think it's a great program and it's worth it.

If you're using a 4:3 resolution now (which you probably are, most low resolutions are 4:3) and you want to switch to HD (16:9 resolutions), you should reshoot.  I don't know if some editing programs can support more than one resolution (I know the program I use, Lightworks, doesn't), but I don't think any will support 4:3 and 16:9 resolutions in the same video.[/quote]
Some of what you say is wrong. You can get HD in the default program, but I believe it's in 4:3, at which point you have to go to another editing program and switch it to 16:9 using crop. And Premiere Pro CAN support both.

Jayko, a DSLR is probably where you want to go if you want betterness than 9k. Are you shooting this in order, or out of order? It might look decent out of order, especially if you color correct, and in order will probably be fine, except in the middle of a scene.]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Mr.Rundown101]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/3803/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-23T17:29:26Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279095/#p279095</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279089/#p279089"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[What kind of quality do you want?  If you want something like 1280x720, the 9000 can do that.
Yes, it's possible.  I've done it.

But you can't get that resolution with the software that came with the webcam.  The only way to get HD with the 9000 is by using it through a frame capture program that can do HD.  A free program I know of is Helium Frog.  I use Stop Motion Pro (version Action! HD), which is a paid program, but I think it's a great program and it's worth it.

If you're using a 4:3 resolution now (which you probably are, most low resolutions are 4:3) and you want to switch to HD (16:9 resolutions), you should reshoot.  I don't know if some editing programs can support more than one resolution (I know the program I use, Lightworks, doesn't), but I don't think any will support 4:3 and 16:9 resolutions in the same video.]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[minifig051]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/2879/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-23T17:10:53Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279089/#p279089</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Higher quality camera]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279080/#p279080"/>
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[Hi out there in Brickfilming land!

So here's the deal; I have been working an a super big brickfilm for over a year now and am finally getting to the point where it is time for rapid picture shooting. 

Up until now, I have shot about 10-15 minutes with a Logitech Quickcam Pro 9000, but the realization has hit me that I have barely scratched the surface. So I'm thinking about purchasing a better camera in order to achieve the magnitude that I'm going for here.

Although the Pro 9000 appears to be the most common of cameras, the holy grail for brickfilmers seems to be the Cannon Rebel T3i or T2i. Then there's also this Logitech c920 that I've heard about but I'm not sure what it is. 

So what I need to know is how to they compare? The Pro 9000 is nice, no doubt about that, but I've become a little unsatisfied with the picture quality, and it's hard to make a brickfilm as theatrical as what I'm going for with it. Is the T2i or the T3i really worth the price, or is it overrated? How about the c920, what's that all about?

Another thing that I would like to know is will it look really strange if I switch cameras part way through production? Would I have to reshoot all my work so far? I expect to be working on this for at least a couple more years so I figure I should get my act together about now.

Thanks for the help, guys.
-Jayko]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Jayko]]></name>
				<uri>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/user/127199/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-07-23T16:09:29Z</updated>
			<id>https://bricksinmotion.com/forums/post/279080/#p279080</id>
		</entry>
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